- It has been about 80 years?
- (MEUGA-YASAN has a long history?) Place-wise, we moved from Asakusa's
5-chome. I think it's been about 80years here. (Is the sewing machine
really used?) We don't use computerized sewing machines. So, even
though we have three more, they are all old. (Is it okay to make traditional
industrial art goods with a sewing machine, not sewn by hand?) Well,
most are hand-sewn. We got the sewing machines in Meiji era, they
started to come in at different times. But we don't keep threads in
stock. (Is gilt that uses electiricy in TANKIN[gold that's heated
and hammared to improve its quality] not good?)Oh, I see. TABI[Japanese
style socks] are that way. Every shop has a sewing machine now. There
are only several left. (When you didn't have sewing machines, did
you have a hard time?) Those times was leather. At first by hand.
(Leather?) Yes. Now, it's cotton, but we used to do it by hand.
Luxurious
TABI plated with gold
- (What about the history of TABI?)There are two systems. One is [SHITOUZU](˘¨mistake
for[SHITAGUTSU]), a ceremonial dress of the Nara-era, which is made
with white silk. The other one is made of leather for protection and
heating of the feet. The military family and the common people wore
them outdoors rather than indoors and this was the start of [TABI.]
(What about the word TABI?) Since the bottom has one layer, it was
written [TANPI](simple leather), and it changed to [TABI.] (What about
the cotton TABI?) According to the established theory, 1600 years
ago, a master of the tea ceremony, Sansai Nagaoka's old wife, made
it and used it at a tea ceremony. That is said to be the beginning,
but some think it existed even before then. They were called SUKIYA-TABI
and was in fashion in tea ceremonies, and there were also TABI plated
with gold. (Does the tradition to make leatehr TABI exist no longer?)
No, it still exists. I would make it, if told so. (Do people wear
them?) Yes, yes. Now people use the costumes of the past for YABUSAME.
There are a lot of those people. Others are totally for hobby and
they don't want to have the same ones as the others. (Is the fingers
not divided in the YABUSAME's TABI?) Some use KOZAKURA(˘¨KOZAKURAODOSHI=woven
with leather dyed with KOZAKURA paints.)as costumes. It's dear hide.
Then we put on KOHAZE and in other cases, we tie them with strings.
That depends on the request of the customers. (Since cotton TABI were
first made, did they start to wear it with ZOURI and GETA?) Yes, the
fingers were divided at that time, yes. (Is that after the big fire
of the MEIREKI?) It is from the MUROMACHI to the MOMOYAMA-era.
 About
60 to 70 percent is ordered.
(There are many forms?) We have ready-made goods, but most are ordered.
About 60 to 80 percent are ordered. (How do you get the measurements?)
That, we have several, about 10 or so. Length and width, around the
ankle. About 20, maybe. (How much more expensive are the ordered ones?)
How much for example? About 30 percent. (Is it worth the price because
they feel different when worn?) Uh, well, if the ready-made ones fit
well, they might do better. The ordered ones aren't necessary...(Do
the customers have their own shapes?) Yes. (You have several thousands
shapes then?) Yes, I keep a lot. (Can a order be taken with one telephone
call?) Yes. (From anywhere in Japan?) Yes. Well, since its Mukojima,
Karyukai(traditional play area), comparatively more orders come from
the local people. (One might have his choice of patterns?) Yeah, some
are patterned, and for dance teachers and tea teachers, white ones are
made. Most are white. Also some are made from hemp cloth and others
from calico. 80 percent are whte socks. (Are the patterned material
for the socks?) No, among these, some are dyed here, and others are
bought. Ther colors wash off if the socks are dyed later. The customers
have trouble that way, so the already-dyed ones are better. (You have
size 24 and half or 25 ready-made?) Yes, we have. For the width, we
have three types, narrow, wide, and regular. (What about high-insteps?)
Yes, we do. We have those. We have reay-made to size 28, and anything
bigger must be ordered. (How do you take orders from foreingers?) Well,
length and with, and around the ankle. (Around the ankle?) Yes, yes.
If I have those three measurements, I can imagine. (That is very interesting!)
(Is the width of the foot the widest part?) That part has to be written.
It is the circumference of the base bones of the thum and the pinky.
(And the ankle,too?) The ankle, differes a little depending on the numbers
of Kohaze, the circumference 2 centimeters above the anklebone. The
length, obviously, is from the heel to the longest finger. (For some,
the longest is the thumb?) That happens. (Do you ask the foreigners,too?)
Well, it's a category for the oredered ones, but for foreigners, it's
very complicated. I think the length is good enough, simply. To be precise,
from behind the heel to the tip of the longest finger, is more accurate.
(Are the size bigger for foreigners?) Yes, but a lady the other day
fitted well in a 24.5. (Do young people have big feet?) Yes,they do.
The
toe-tips are difficult.
- (Which part is most difficult part to make?) Uhh, there are about
twenty progress. The beginning and the end is difficult. To make
the shape to begin with is difficult. Also, among the parts done
with a sewing machine, the most difficult is the toe-tips. (It's
made up with how many clothes?) The bottom of the socks is made
up of two glued together. We buy them glued together. And reinforcements.
We don't make socks for Sumo wrestlers, but if the socks are requested
to last long, we use three, or we put a thick cloth there. Regularly,
it's two.
- At present, in the inner-city, there are less
than ten
- (What age was you when you started the job?) (Father) It was after
I came back from the military, so about twenty-four, or five. (Did
you work before you went to the military?) I was still a student.
(How many years has it been?) Fifty years. (Being taught by your
father?) (Son) There's no one that would teach, you know. Pepople
who produce has gone. (Has it increased?) There aren't many. (Son)
I don't know the exact number, but from MEIJI to TAISHO, there were
2000. There were socks(TABI) made by shops who delt with these white
socks, and also those worn with festival costumes by amateur people.
If all those were included, there must've been 6000 nation-wide.
At present, in the inner-city, there are less than ten, who do it
in a similar way. (We walk wearing clothes, so we can't do anything
about it, can't we?) People who like it, likes it, KIMONO. (Mothers
don't come to class inspection in KIMONOS!) Qiite right. (You wear
TABI with YUKATA?) Basically, no. When you practice with KIMONO,
you wear white TABI. (Do TABI hold the feet better than regular
socks?) Yes, the fingers are divided, and it's cotton.
- The ankle, in this way, gets thinner and fatter
- (For ladies, is it always 4 KOHASES?) No, it isn't always that
way. White TABIS can be four or five, either for men or women. We
just happen to make patterned TABIS, five for men and four for women.
There is no such rule or anything. (Depends on the choice?) Yes.
Well, some request for same things with six or three. (When the
number of KOHAZE increases, do the socks extend upward?) Yes, that's
right. They go up by about 2 cm each. Four is enough. (Do the feet
change after one becomes an adult?) Yes, slightly. (But not as much
as body weight?) Uh well, the ankles loose the fat and becomes thin
or becomes fatter. Around here, how do you say, there aren't any
more fat. This happens to a lot of women. (Even if one has a model,
he should get remeasured?) No, no. Some ask for adjustment with
a thread, and that kind of adjustment is enough.
- Thin and cool
- (What was the origin of the name MEUGAYA?) I don't know for sure.
The head house was in a town called Nihon-bashi Naniwa-cho. It was
the year 2 of Manji. It's the era after the big fire the MEIREKI(Edo).
Then there were lots of NOREN-WAKE(when the shop allowed the artisans
to use its name after he becomes independent). They wrote it in
Kanji letters, but one day it became to be wirtten in four Hiragana
letters. It might have come from the family crest. MEUGAYA is the
oldest place to be selling cotton TABI. (What is your peculiarity?)
We are very cautious since we take orders. We go along with what
is requested in case of ordered TABIS. The ready-made ones are thin,
cool. We try to have it that way.
- Just doing it, isn't good enough
- (Is your son still young?) He is twenty-one. (Are you happy?)
No. (What do you do for trainig?) Well, you see this string here?
You twist this. The big makers all use machines and sew. (It all
starts from twisting thread with your hands?) It's the start. (How
many years does the twisting take?) Often, it's too tight or loose.
Just doing it, isn't good enough. (Interesting!) Then, the space
between the threads are too wide or two small, the width is that
and this...if this is continued for a day, it's quite serious for
the man. (What do you do after the twisting of the thread is done?)
Then, you sew the easy part of the cut cloth in a straight-sew.
(Is that by a sewing-machine?) Yes. The sewing line becomes crooked
like this. And then, you begin to cut with a leather knife as much
as possible. It doesn't matter what you do first, but basically
at first, you do the thread along with some odd jobs. (Does it take
about 10 years to beome independent?) Yes, it does. You get the
way. You begin to know the goodness of the cloth. Cloth that's tighly
sewn and those that aren't. You get to know by connection.
 - I
want the socks to be worn by chic people.
- (Do the feet look smaller when TABIS are worn?) To put it shortly,
I want the socks to be worn by chic people. (What's a chic man with
socks?) It's the tip of the toe. The toes should point straight,
not spread wide, to put it in a word. (The people who wear them
can't do anything about it?) Yes, if the customer knows quite well,
he would say the same to us, but there aren't many people who knows
so much, so even if we say it's so, they have no idea. People who
have worn TABI several times, say they want here and there held,
in case of ready-made ones and also ordered ones. People who wear
them a few times a year, or who haven't worn them for a while, can't
really tell. (What about those who wore them on Shichigosan-celebration
of a child's third, fifth, and seventh years-?) No, they wouldn't
know. Even explained orally, no. They don't try to understand. (If
one wore it every day from morning to night, would he learn a lot?)
Yes, of course. Even the material, yes. (The customer's discrimination
has been lost?) It has decreased. More and moe have been decreased.
Some customers are really particular. Even a little difference and
they say, "Why did it change like this?" They know what it has been
like, so they say, "Why is it like this?" (Is that the destiny of
the ordered ones?) Yes, it's not like we aren't careful. (There
are more orderd ones?) Yes, about60 or 70 percent. (Are there a
lot of customers who live close by?) Yes,yes. MUKOU-JIMA is KARYUKAI
with lots of people who wear TABIS, naturally. (Seen a lot of geisha-girls
with beautiful legs?) Yes. there are those perquisites.
|